Featured Image: The Moza R3 DD / ES Steering Wheel
As my own sim racing journey has evolved from beginner to (I’d like to think) to expert, I feel a little like I’ve recently been ignoring our core purpose: to help beginner sim racers get started. Luckily, Moza reached out with a request for me to look at their R3 sim racing bundle package. The bundle comes with a sim racing wheel (the ES wheel), the new (and incredibly tiny) R3 direct drive wheelbase, and of course the SR-P lite Pedal set, all for €439.00 or, in USD: $399.00. Bargain!
In today’s article I’m going to cover off two key things: How to set up a budget sim racing setup, and of course, I’d like to talk about the R3 itself. Does the first XBOX / PC compatible wheelbase’s force feedback feel OK at this price point? Is it easy to get started and configure? How does it compare to other direct drive wheel bundles, like the Moza R5 or Fanatec CSL DD? Let’s find out…
Moza’s R3 – a Budget Wheelbase for XBOX and PC
The MOZA R3 bundle is a budget direct drive racing wheelbase, steering wheel and pedal set compatible with Xbox Series X|S, Xbox One and PC.
It features a peak torque of 3.9 Nm and a rated power of 72W. The wheel uses a 15-bit encoder and offers a 1000Hz USB refresh rate. Constructed from aviation aluminium alloy, the R3 allows for unlimited wheel rotation. It supports app functionality, quick-release mechanisms and various connection ports for peripherals. It’s aimed at console racers and beginners, and that’s a good thing.
The R3 arrives in a surprisingly large and heavy box. Inside, you’ll find the direct drive R3 wheelbase, an ES steering wheel (for XBOX) and the SR-P lite pedals.
As you’d expect, a power supply, desk clamp, some tools and the required cables are included. It’s very well packed and straightforward enough to set up without needing the manual. Even as a first-timer, there’s nothing about the initial setup that should be a challenge.
The aesthetics of the R3 have been improved over the R5. It’s a far more compact, sleeker-looking device compared to the R5. Moza’s design evolution looks a little like a response to the new design language found on the Clubsport DD range of wheelbases from Fanatec.
Installation of the R3 is easy and looks a little like this:
- Install the desk clamp, connect the pedals, power supply (PSU) and plug the wheelbase into your PC
The clamp that comes with both the R3, R5 and R9 (if you’re a desktop sim racer) is so sturdy and accessible enough that removing the wheelbase from your desk is a piece of cake. If you want to build a sim rig, the R3 / R5 R9 are all mounted on a wheel deck.
- Install Steam (PC Gaming) or check the Moza / XBOX Games Compatibility list (below)
I’m assuming that you haven’t decided on a sim racing game to get started with. No problem, I’ve created a Moza software compatibility list for Moza wheelbases for XBOX users here:
Moza Simulator XBOX Software Compatibility List:
Game name | FFB | Presets | Telemetry data | HBP | HGP | SGP | In-Game problem points |
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Assetto Corsa | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
Dirt Rally 2.0 | ● | ● | × | ● | ● | ● | If you step on the gas pedal vehicle does not move after the gear when you use HBP handbrake, the dead zone needs to be adjusted 5-10% in the game. |
EA Sports WRC | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
F1 2021 | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
F1 22 | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
F1 24 | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
Farming Simulator 22 | × | ● | × | × | × | × | |
Forza Horizon 4 | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
Forza Horizon 5 | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
Forza Motorsport (2023) | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | The maximum steering angle of the steering wheel needs to be adjusted to 2000°. |
Forza Motorsport 7 | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
GRID (2019) | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
Grid Legends | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
Lawn Mowing Simulator | × | × | × | ||||
Monster Truck Championship | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
NASCAR 21 lgnition | ● | × | × | × | × | × | |
NASCAR Heat 4 | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
NASCAR Heat 5 | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
Project Cars 2 | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
Project Cars 3 | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
Snowrunner | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
Mudrunner | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
The Crew 2 | × | × | × | × | × | × | |
The Crew Motorfest | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
V Rally 4 | ● | ● | × | ● | ● | ● | |
World of Outlaws Dirt Racing | ● | ● | × | × | × | × | |
WRC 7 | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
WRC 8 | ● | ● | × | ● | ● | ● | |
WRC 9 | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
WRC 10 | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
WRC Generations | ● | ● | × | ● | × | × | |
Wreckfest | ● | ● | × | × | × | × |
I’m using a PC for my test (my desktop gaming PC setup to be precise). I’ve had Project Cars 2 floating around forever on Steam, perfect for my 7-year-old who will happily spend a few days putting the wheel through its paces as part of our testing.
- Download and install Pit House (PC)
Like many applications you have to agree to the terms and conditions, which are somewhat vague about data collection.
Pit House installs relatively quickly, needing only the language settings to be correctly selected at startup, and a restart for the font installation. My R3 was in XBOX mode, which Pit House helpfully pointed out at startup.
Supplying the wheel from the factory set to XBOX mode seems like common sense to me, as the expectation for XBOX users will be that it will work without having to connect it to a PC…
To take the R3 out of XBOX mode, hold the S1 and S2 buttons down simultaneously. The RPM indicator on the steering wheel will flash, and Windows will acknowledge the appearance of a recognised USB device. If you’ve plugged your R3 into your XBOX and it hasn’t been detected, try holding the S1 and S2 buttons down, incase it is in PC mode.
R3 FFB Settings in Moza Pit House
Here are the settings I found worked well with Project Cars 2 and iRacing during testing:
Basic Settings:
- Preset Modes Available: Drift, Formula 1, GT, Karting, Performance, Rally, Lorry
- Maximum Steering Angle: 900° (adjustable from 360° to 1800°, with Synchronous option)
- Road Sensitivity: 9 (on a scale of 0-10)
- Game Force Feedback Intensity: 100% (adjustable from 0-100%)
- Maximum Wheel Speed: 110 rpm (adjustable from 10-200 rpm)
- Wheel Spring Strength: 70% (adjustable from 0-100%)
- Wheel Damper: 55% (adjustable from 0-100%)
Advanced Settings:
- Force Feedback Reversal: Off
- Maximum Output Torque Limit: 100% (adjustable from 50-100%)
- Hands-Off Protection: On
- Steering Wheel Inertia: 1550 (adjustable from 100-4000)
- Natural Inertia: 300% (adjustable from 100-500%)
- Wheel Friction: 30% (adjustable from 0-100%)
- Speed-dependent Damping: 50% (adjustable from 0-100%)
- Start Point of Speed-dependent Damping: 0 km/h (adjustable from 0-400 km/h)
FFB Effect Equaliser:
- The graph shows FFB effects across different frequencies (0Hz to 100Hz)
- Effect settings: Operating Wheel, Body Bumps, 80km/h Kerb Effects, ABS Vibration, 160km/h Kerb Effects, 80km/h Grass Effects, 240km/h Kerb Effects, 60km/h Sand Effects, HF Vibration
Base FFB Curve:
- Linear curve preset (default)
- Other presets: S curve, Inverted S curve, Exponential curve, Parabolic curve
- The graph shows the relationship between Game FFB Output Signal (x-axis) and Base FFB Output Signal (y-axis)
How does the R3 feel?
And here we get to the crux of my write up. I see the R3 as very much an entry-level sim racing wheel, designed to wipe away what’s left of any market share the Logitech G923 might still be clinging on to.
When you look at buying this wheelbase from that point of view, choosing the R3 as your very first sim racing package is such a no-brainer. By comparison to Logitech and Thrustmaster gear, it is the obvious choice.
The FFB delivery is good enough to provide a solid introduction to sim racing, without breaking the bank.
It’s worth noting that the force feedback quality on Xbox is a little lower than on PC, which is an important consideration for console users. I think this applies to pretty much every XBOX or PlayStation-compatible wheelbase – the FFB will never feel quite as authentic on a console. Despite this, the R3 still provides a transformative experience compared to entry-level wheels, especially in terms of the FFB smoothness and detail.
Naturally, it’s worth comparing the R3 to the R5. The R3 seems to offer a similar level of detail and overall feel, with the main difference being the peak torque.
While the R5’s 5.5Nm might provide a bit more headroom for those seeking stronger force feedback, the R3’s 3.9Nm is easily sufficient for beginners and casual sim racers.
Both wheelbases represent excellent value for money in their respective categories, with the R3 potentially edging out as the better choice for those on a tighter budget or primarily using an XBOX; Ultimately, like the R5, the R3 stands as a solid option for newcomers to sim racing, offering a taste of direct drive technology without breaking the bank.
The only other alternative, of course, is the Fanatec CSL DD – priced at $449.95.
Topic: Direct Drive Wheels